One year in the merry old land of Oz. Stories and pictures documenting the longest international adventure of my life... so far :)I went surfing for the first time a few weeks ago!
Let me say that I didn´t expect to get up right away or be amazing by any means, but I didn´t expect it to be SO INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT!
It was a really windy day, so it made it even more difficult, but getting past the initial waves was exhausting. As soon as I got out into calm water, I collapsed on my board and resisted taking a small nap.
I didn´t really know what I was doing, so I pretended I was in the movie Blue Crush and paddled my heart out and caught my first wave. It was terrifying but very cool. I just held on for dear life and it brought me all the way to the shore which was amazing until I realized I had to paddle back out.. You have to work hard to play hard!
After catching a few more waves, I was paddling out and a huge wave was coming at me. I was parallel to the wave so I thought I´d just hold on to the board until the wave went by me/over me/etc. Clearly I didn´t know what was going to happen because if I had, I would have turned my board or bailed. Because I clung to my board like white on rice, I ended up catching the wave SIDEWAYS and it brought me all the way in to the shore.
I got a large bruise on my ankle but an even bigger bruise on my ego ;)
Permalink: http://tmblr.co/ZeX9LxG4bkpn
